The intimate, 60-seat dining space of the newly opened Koast at 6623 Melrose purposefully evokes the deep hues and gentle lighting of the sea; blue banquettes line the walls, while sconces illuminate the quasi-nautical exposed wooden beams of the ceiling. Formerly home to Umeya, this stretch of Melrose is a diner’s paradise, with a number of Michelin-starred eateries within walking distance, including Kali and Providence.
Koast is helmed by Chef Kevin Meechan, who has delighted patrons at Kali, while Koast’s sommelier is Drew Langley, who spent a decade working at Providence. As of January 29th, patrons can experience the incredible array of East-Coast-inspired seafood dishes for dinner seven days a week.
According to Chef Meechan, the proximity of Kali and Providence was a major factor in choosing Koast’s location. “This area truly feels like a second home to us. When searching for a location, staying close to Kali was important so we could continue serving this incredible community while offering them something new and exciting. We weren’t drawn to the idea of having restaurants scattered across the city – instead, we wanted to look in our backyard. We’re thrilled to have found this space on Melrose and Highland, right in the shadows of legendary chefs like Nancy Silverton, Jordan Kahn, and Ludo Lefebvre.”
It didn’t hurt that the former occupant of the space had been Umeya. “When we first toured the building, we discovered it was a former sushi restaurant, and the space immediately gave off seafood vibes,” Meechan explains. “That energy inspired us to move in the direction of a seafood-focused concept.”
The dishes themselves are both a visual and literal feast. Oyster dishes are served on beds of small stones, while sprigs of rosemary and a vibrant lemon highlight the savory appeal of a grilled entree. The nuanced flavor continues with a number of exquisitely prepared confections, including a pasta dish topped with octopus and diced chives and a tuna carpaccio adorned with fresh basil.
When asked what the process was like in developing the menu, Meechan says that “we reflected on what we personally love to eat at seafood restaurants and what we felt our customers would want to see on the menu. The process involved brainstorming ideas, testing, and tasting dishes until we felt confident in the offerings.”
For his part, sommelier Drew Langley has curated a list that draws on Austrian Rieslings and English sparkling wines, which should serve as light, delicious accompaniments to the nuanced flavors of the fish.
Koast also boasts an upper seating deck with a wooden canopy, firepit, and benches. Much as the interior dining room evokes the relaxing rhythms of the sea, the outdoor deck’s polished wood and embedded lighting may remind some diners of the bridge of a luxury ship. This elegant yet adventurous aesthetic is courtesy of designer Cory Surovek, whose considerable resume includes work for both television programs and prominent hospitality clients including Starwood Hotels & Resorts.
As the official opening gets underway, Chef Meecham could not be happier. “We’re excited to share Koast with the neighborhood and we believe they’re going to love it.”
